AATCC test methods help your supply chain make quicker, more informed decisions. It’s no secret that standardized test methods are incredibly detailed. Some might even say overwhelming—with entire sections for terminology, calculations, and statistics. Believe it or not, there are no wasted words. Every section of a test method, evaluation procedure, or other standard has a purpose. But certain sections may be more important to some readers than to others.
Technicians
If you are performing the test, read every section carefully. Don’t skim over sections like Safety Precautions, Conditioning, or Precision. Check www.aatcc.org/testing/#tm to be sure you are using the most recent version of the standard. Pay attention to details like tolerances and significant digits. If you find unclear, incorrect, or missing information, contact AATCC to ask a question or suggest a revision. AATCC standards are some of the most robust in the world because of the input of experts—like you—from across the industry.
AATCC offers several opportunities to get advice and practice for testing. The Textile Testing Workshop is a hands-on event at the AATCC Technical Center lab. Whether you are brand new to testing or have years of experience, there is always something new to learn. Taught by industry experts, the workshop includes not only the mechanics of performing a test, but also recent changes, common mistakes, tips, background, and applications. Other resources include On-Site Training, Global Training, and Online Training programs. Most AATCC training programs include both AATCC and ASTM textile testing methods.
Attend the Textile Testing Workshop October 26-27 www.aatcc.org/aatcc-events/ttw/
Specifiers
If you are ordering a test or reviewing a report, you may not need quite as much detail. It is still helpful to have a good understanding of the method to determine whether it is applicable and how to interpret the results. Read the Foreword, Purpose and Scope, and Principle sections at the beginning of each standard to get an overview of when and how they should be used. The content of these sections is available at no cost, simply by clicking the standard number at www.aatcc.org/testing/#tm).
The Textile Testing Workshop is also a valuable experience for specifiers and others working indirectly with standards. You will get insight into why a standard was developed, how it’s used in industry, and what things can influence the results.
Foreword
More AATCC standards now start with a Foreword. Forewords are “a history of the rationale for the development of the method.” This means an explanation of why the standard was developed and how it relates to similar standards.
For example, AATCC TM124, Smoothness Appearance of Fabrics after Home Laundering, explains, “This test method and its accompanying three-dimensional smoothness appearance replica set were developed for evaluation of woven fabrics with a durable press finish. It is common industry practice to use the method and scales for 
evaluation of other textile materials although some specimens may have different appearance characteristics due to different fabric constructions.” Knowing that TM124 was developed for durable press fabrics makes it easier to understand why it is difficult to consistently evaluate lightweight knit fabrics.
AATCC TM207, Seam Twist in Garments Before and after Home Laundering, clarifies differences among several test methods to help the user choose the one most applicable to his or her needs. “TM207 is for evaluation of seam twist before and after home laundering. TM179, Skew Change in Fabrics After Home Laundering, is to be used to evaluate the change in fabric skew after home laundering. ASTM D3882, Standard Test Method for Bow and Skew of Woven and Knitted Fabrics is only to be used to evaluate fabric skew in its original state (before laundering).”
Purpose and Scope
As the heading suggests, the Purpose and Scope section of a standard has two distinct objectives. First, it tells readers why the standard exists. For a test method, it usually explains what property is measured. The second objective is to indicate the materials that may (or may not) be tested. AATCC TM112 Formaldehyde Release from Fabric: Sealed Jar and TM206, Free and Hydrolyzed Formaldehyde: Water Extraction both measure formaldehyde in fabric, but the Purpose and Scope section helps readers determine which best suits their needs. TM112 measures formaldehyde released under accelerated storage conditions. TM206 measures formaldehyde extracted from the fabric using water. Both methods are applicable to “to textile fabrics…particularly fabrics finished with chemicals containing formaldehyde,” but TM206 includes an important additional detail. The water extraction method is only applicable to “wettable (non-hydrophobic)” fabrics. Reading this section carefully could avoid wasted testing time and money.
Principle
The Principle section has always called for AATCC test methods to “Briefly state the testing technique covered in the test method, outlining the fundamental physical and chemical concepts involved.” This should be a very simple overview of the procedure—not enough detail to perform the test, but enough to get the general idea. In case you’ve never seen the word “crocking,” the Principle section of TM8, Colorfastness to Crocking: Crockmeter, provides a concise description of the method: “A colored test specimen is rubbed with a white crocking test cloth under controlled conditions.”
Now, the Principle section should also include “the metric or scale for reporting results.” This means anyone can pick up a report, review the test method Principle and have some idea of what the test results mean. A staining grade of 3 makes more sense when you understand it is on a scale of 5 to 1, not out of 10 or 100. Understanding the direction also makes a difference. Without explanation, it may not be obvious that a grade of 3 means less staining than a grade of 2.
Research Committees
AATCC standards are reviewed at least once every five years. As documents come due, the responsible research committee reviews formatting and clarity as well as technical content. With each revision, AATCC standards become more user-friendly and more valuable to the industry. You can be part of this work! Bring your questions or suggestions to the next round of AATCC Research Committee Meetings. Meetings are open to all and there is no fee to attend.
About the Author
Diana Wyman is Executive Vice President of AATCC. She is passionate about textile testing and standards. Feel free to reach out with your own enthusiasm or frustrations around standards. A version of this article was originally published in a June 2018 edition of AATCC News. To subscribe to this free, emailed newsletter, visit www.aatcc.org/subscribe.