In a consumer survey carried out by The Vegan Society, almost 50% of customers preferred to have vegan-verified products across all clothing categories. Consequently, more and more retailers are offering vegan and eco-friendly fashion items to target this growing customer base The term ‘vegan’ has in recent times evolved to describe not only plant-based diets, but all products that contain no animal or animal-derived materials. With the ongoing climate crises and more environmentally conscious customers, fashion brands are committing to sustainable and ethical practices, not only in the raw materials they use, but the entire manufacturing process.

Vegan Raw Materials

Leather and fur are two of the most commonly used animal products in the fashion industry. According to Nick Drewe, e-commerce expert at WeThrift, “Brands are catering to customer preferences and societal shifts. With a 43% increase year-on-year in products described as ‘vegan’ in the UK, fashion companies are increasingly looking for animal-free alternatives to leather and suede.” Vegan fashion brands have developed alternatives to these animal products for use in clothes, shoes, and bags. Corkor, a PETA-certified vegan brand based in Portugal, produces bags, wallets, and belts from a plant-based alternative to leather, obtained from the bark of the cork oak tree. Cork oaks regrow their bark and can be sustainably harvested multiple times in the trees’ lifetime. Natalia Guerreiro, co-founder of Corkor, says that cork leather is “light-weight, very soft to the touch, and hypoallergenic,” among other characteristics. Plant-based fabrics are not new to the fashion industry either. Loomstate makes its vegan clothes from organic cotton, and underwear brand Wama chose hemp due to its sustainability, softness, and antibacterial properties.

Vegan Recycled Clothing

Many brands find it easier to go vegan by recycling plastics products alongside the use of vegan fabrics. Brazil-based shoe brand Insecta uses recycled rubber and plastic bottles, thrift fabrics, and vegan leather to create eco-friendly vegan products. It also has a return program; old shoes can be returned to the company, where they are broken down and turned into new shoes, creating zero waste. Girlfriend Collective, an activewear brand in the US, creates sports bras and leggings using recycled polyester obtained from used and discarded plastic bottles. Nylon is created from recycled fishing nets that would have otherwise ended up in the ocean as waste. Another activewear brand, Nube, uses the same strategy, with their exercise outfits being made from 79% recycled polyester and 21% spandex.

Sustainability in the Production Process

While brands continue to find vegan and sustainable raw materials, it is important to note that there are many aspects of the fashion manufacturing process that also make use of animal products alongside unsustainable manufacturing processes. Adhesives and glues used to bind materials are often made from collagen sourced from animals, while pigment dyes are obtained from animals such as cochineal insects, murex snails and cuttlefish. Some finishing sprays contain animal leather powder to provide a more ‘authentic’ look.

According to the Higg Materials Sustainability Index, cow-derived leather is almost three times more harmful to the environment than vegan leather, while wool is twice as harmful as polyester. These statements are derived from comparing the chemical processes, water, and energy consumption of the manufacturing processes of these materials. Many fashion brands are trying to reduce their ecological footprint by cutting their water and energy consumption. To address these issues, Guerreiro says, “Corkor uses water-based dyes and glues, and recycles more than 70% of the waste made in production. In terms of energy used in transportation, Corkor manages to limit its footprint by ensuring all raw materials are sourced nearby, and cooperators live close to the facilities.” Activewear brand Nube claims its use of recycled polyester rather than virgin polyester helps it reduce water consumption by 20%, energy consumption by over 45%, and greenhouse gas emission by over 30%.

Vegan Regulation and Certification

Brands can make claims about their sustainability or veganism that are often untrue. There are no legal requirements for labeling of animal products in the fashion industry and, quite often, real fur is mislabeled as fake fur and unwittingly sold by retailers. As a result, the British Retail Consortium (BRC) in 2020 released new guidelines to enable businesses to ensure vegan items are actually 100% free from animal and animal-derived products. This also helps increase consumer confidence, as there has been a dramatic increase in buyers looking for vegan products. PETA certifies vegan brands around the world, while The Vegan Society is more active within the UK. The Vegan Society’s Vegan Trademark is the oldest vegan certification program, helping consumers identify products that are 100% vegan. Popular brand registered with the Vegan Trademark include George at ASDA, Kurt Geiger, Gola, and New Look. Over 60% of New Look’s available footwear and bags are certified vegan, with plans to eventually offer a completely vegan range. In June 2021, Israel became the first country to completely ban the sale for fur for fashion purposes. Around the same time, the UK Department for Environment, Food, and Rural Affairs commenced a public consultation on the UK fur market. This action is expected to inform future government policy on the fur trade, with a possible ban on animal fur trading. Luxury fashion brands, including Prada, Gucci, H&M, Neiman Marcus, and Canada Goose, have already banned fur products from their collections.

A Vegan Future for the Textile Industry?

For the Earth-conscious shopper, there are now many alternatives to animal-derived fashion. Whether driven by ethics or by finances, consumers are migrating en masse to vegan fashion, and the market will only continue to grow. As Guerreiro puts it, “There are companies producing bags made out of recycled tires or ocean rubbish, and on the other side, new eco-friendly and biodegradable fabrics are appearing in the market. There will be a market for all, as the priority is to have less animal fashion products.” As consumer demand for vegan fashion continues to soar, fashion brands will continue to evolve to cater to these demands, or risk being left behind.

About the Author: Nicola Davies is a consultant and writes science-based articles in a number of industries. She has written numerous feature articles for AATCC.