Comfort Takes the Lead in Modern Mens Suit Tailoring

Performance treatments and next-generation fibers help drive a resurgence in men’s suits.

In menswear, tailored clothing is regaining popularity. After years of living in performance polos, stretch denim, and workout gear—powered by CoolMax and similar technologies—consumers have recalibrated their expectations for comfort. That shift is creating new demands for suits and sport coats that deliver style without stiffness, relying on high-quality, durable fabrics that are lightweight, flexible, and travel-friendly, often with little to no lining or internal structure.

In traditional tailoring, linings and interlinings provide shape and structure, but they also add weight to garments that may already be heavy in fall and winter seasons, when tweeds, corduroys, and worsteds dominate assortments. While deconstructed suits have become far more common, abandoning much of that internal structure for a near sweater-like feel, those garments often come at a high price point. Bespoke suits offer unparalleled comfort and movement, but their price remains out of reach for most consumers, even as made-to-measure brands such as SuitSupply continue to narrow the gap between custom fit and mass accessibility. For the more budget-conscious customer, the category’s hope is seen through the evolution of fiber innovation. Today’s mills are applying advanced fabric and fiber treatments to lighter-weight materials, creating a new generation of tailored clothing that is easier to care for, more comfortable, and better suited for travel. Patrick Chan, National Sales Manager at Novara/Renoir Fashion (where suits typically retail between $400 and $600), points to fabric innovation as a key driver of this evolution. When sourcing fabrics for an upcoming season, Chan was presented with a menu of performance options from one of the brand’s Chinese mills. “I was able to choose treatments that would make fabric machine washable, anti-pilling, and add nano-treatments for stretch, stain- and water-resistance, and breathability,” he says. “These were perfect for the creation of a travel suit, allowing us to offer a cool wool version to compete with tech fabrics.” That same intersection of comfort, performance, and tailoring is central to 37.5 Technology’s work, which develops sustainable, temperature-regulating materials for apparel, footwear, and home goods. CEO Jeff Bowman explains that the technology is based on volcanic sand particles that attract moisture and absorb infrared energy emitted by the body, helping regulate temperature and direct moisture movement. Initially limited to polyester filament yarns, the technology has expanded to include polyester staple fibers blended with natural fibers, fine-denier nylon, and, more recently, viscose. “That expansion has really opened up the women’s and intimate apparel businesses,” Bowman notes, “and we’re now seeing usage in men’s dress shirts around the world.”

In menswear tailoring, 37.5 has seen strong growth through its partnership with Tailored Brands, which includes Men’s Wearhouse, Jos. A. Bank, Moores, and K&G Fashion Superstore. Business with the omni-channel retailer has increased 37%, driven in part by the ChillFlex line. Under the Awearness Kenneth Cole collection at Men’s Wearhouse, a 70/28/2 wool/polyester/spandex suit incorporating 37.5 technology retails for approximately US$300, while a comparable model sold as separates at Jos. A. Bank retails closer to US$600. “Given the retail climate, those are amazing results,” Bowman says. He adds that the company continues to see strong global demand from menswear retailers such as Aoyama in Japan, Lilanz in China, and Blackberrys in India. “We were concerned during COVID-19, because suiting dropped off when people weren’t going to work, though we saw a bump in home textiles. But now retailers are looking to differentiate again. They’re focusing on better fit, stretch in the right places, non-wrinkle technologies, and overall comfort, and we’re very much part of that story.” Another fiber playing a growing role in modern tailoring is Tencel, according to Manuela Gesslbauer, Head of Global Brand Partnerships—Textiles. “Tencel has become a bit of a secret weapon in tailoring,” she says. “When it’s blended with wool or cotton, you get fabrics that are smoother, cooler, and more breathable, but that still hold their shape. It takes that ‘office armor’ feeling out of suiting. You can commute, travel, or sit at a desk all day without feeling restricted.”

While earlier generations of Tencel were primarily associated with soft, fluid, silky fabrics, Gesslbauer notes that newer fiber types offer greater surface versatility and durability, making them suitable for crisp shirtings and tailored wovens. “We’re seeing brands use Tencel in more performance-driven ways, from travel suiting and stretch tailoring to hybrid workwear and lightweight transitional pieces,” she says. Common blends include wool/Tencel, cotton/Tencel, and Tencel/linen, often with small amounts of elastane. Each combination addresses a different need, from cooler hand feel and breathability to improved crease recovery and structure. Structurally, fine twills, tropical weaves, and softer double knits are all benefiting from Tencel’s drape and moisture management. “You’ll see Tencel across mid- to premium-priced tailoring,” Gesslbauer adds. “Our technical teams work closely with mills and brand partners to align fabric development with sustainability goals and target price points.” She points to European and US brands using wool/Tencel blends for lightweight suiting, while contemporary labels lean into Tencel/linen for relaxed summer tailoring. In denim, which increasingly sits alongside modern suiting assortments, the fiber is widely used for softness and fluidity, reinforcing its role as a quality cue rather than a luxury-only material. As tailored clothing continues its return, comfort is no longer a secondary consideration but a defining feature. Advances in fibers, finishes, and fabric engineering are allowing brands to meet consumers where they are, blending polish with the ease they’ve grown accustomed to in casual and performance wear. From temperature-regulating technologies to sustainable cellulose fibers, innovation is reshaping suiting from the inside out. The result is a category that feels better aligned with modern lifestyles, without sacrificing the authority and confidence that tailoring has always conveyed.

About the Author

John Russel Jones is the Managing Editor of menswear retailing trade publication MR Magazine, as well as a freelance writer who enjoys covering design in all its forms, from fashion to architecture and interiors, as well as textiles and technology. A Fashion Institute of Technology graduate, he lives with his husband in Jersey City, NJ, and St. Augustine, FL, USA.