Are Nanotechnology Textiles Sustainable?

Millie is 20. She’s quite the purveyor of fast fashion. But she’s also a conscious consumer.  And as a matter of fact, she’s also into nano-coated wearables. Nano-coatings are thin films in the nanoscale range (around 1-100 nm) that are applied to surfaces to enhance various features such as antibacterial and anti-fouling capabilities, corrosion resistance, and protection against water/ice.

The Utility of Nanotechnology

Quite obviously, nanotechnology applications have made their way into diverse fields such as healthcare, packaging, sports and leisure, defense, home and household, environmental protection, geotextiles, and others, catering to the needs of men, women, and children. The use of nanotechnology has fast become prevalent in combination with fibers or as a covering on textiles to augment the surface properties of clothing. These new materials are considered antimicrobial, water-resistant, static-reducing, UV-protective, colorfast, soil-resistant, odor-resistant, stain-resistant, wrinkle-resistant, and providing improved thermal performance. However, there’s always the question of sustainability.   A 2022 report highlights that, as of 2021, Western Europe had the highest share in the global nanotechnology clothing market—typically categorized into: nanofibers, nanocomposite fibers, and nano-finishing—followed by the Asia-Pacific region. The report covered several regions, including Asia-Pacific, Western Europe, Eastern Europe, North America, South America, the Middle East, and Africa. Not surprisingly, the global nanotechnology clothing market is expected to grow 25% from 2021 to 2031, crossing the value of US$23.82 billion by the end of 2031.  

Is Sustainability a Problem?

But as fashionable as people like Millie are, they are also curious and analytical. They often ponder how a new surge in demand would contribute to relatively short-lived mass consumer goods, or intensify product obsolescence, or environmental pollution and the issue of carbon footprints? These are good points.   One, for example, is the issue of recycling, because of the very nature of nanotechnology—including the mixture of fibers used, which can be two or more. Because the lifecycle of the product and design of the product may have an effect on different environmental situations (e.g., the way it might possibly end up in the soil).   Which is why Thomas Ong, CEO at NanoTextile Sdn Bhd, a Malaysian technology provider, opines that “single blends are currently easier to be recycled” but cautions it also “depends on the availability of recycling facilities dependent on how extensive and developed certain countries are.” He cites the most basic recycled nanotextiles could well be a single blend of cotton fabric or single blend of polyester. On the matter of short-lived mass consumer goods, or intensifying product obsolescence, and carbon footprint, NanoTextile’s Ong maintains production is still low, “giving more time for sustainable types of fabric… to be developed.”   Which trickles down to the next query: chemicals used in nanomaterials. Quite naturally, various chemicals will affect textile production, including the use of various pesticides and dyestuff. To which Ong agrees, noting “dyes are certainly the most polluting element in fabric making in countries like Bangladesh and China.” But he also notes that innovation has initiated “the development of new organic and bio-degradable dyes, which are popular and in demand.”   Yet he is quite conscious of the challenges of “scaling-up, which creates another whole new agenda.” Hence, he advises textile manufacturers globally to be compliant to Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) Certification and Testing Programs and Restriction of Hazardous Substances (RoHS) standards. Then again, the irony of the sustainable use of these fabrics also boils down to consumers of fast fashion such as Millie and her like. They have a crucial role to play in the maintaining the sustainability of this fabric, and its usage. Ong clarifies the awareness of conscious sustainable use is still low among consumers worldwide. He encourages a public/private partnership for creating awareness of future milestones in this space. Rest assured, the reasons are plenty to maintain nanotechnology’s sustainability, as the benefits will eventually outweigh the costs, and it is only a matter of time when these fabrics will become a “commodity,” as pointed out by NanoTextiles’s Ong.   Yes! We do live in interesting times.  
About the Author Dr Thanaseelen Rajasakran  is an Assistant Professor at a Malaysian university, Universiti Tunku Abdul Rahman. He is passionate about all things concerning United Nations sustainable development goals.

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