Sustainability in Textiles

August 17, 2022 - August 18, 2022

Complimentary for AATCC members
US$25.00 for nonmembers

Sustainability in Textiles recorded on August 17-18, 2022, features industry leaders and academic experts exploring environmental challenges and solutions across the supply chain, from raw materials to finished goods and beyond. Speakers will discuss new research, upcoming innovation, test methods, raw materials, fiber fragmentation, dyeing and finishing, as well as certifications, LCAs, and other topics.

  • Program Timetable

    WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 17, 2022
    12:00 PM - 4:45 PM (ET)
    12:00 PMWelcome and Opening Remarks
    Moderator: Lewis Shuler, Paradise Textiles
    12:05Comparative Analysis of Biodegradability of Textile Materials in the Marine Environment—Demetri Deheyn, Scripps Institution of Oceanography
    Plastics have become a global pollution issue that has generated a great deal of effort to recycle them, and/or reduce their original production while replacing them with alternative, more sustainable materials. Most plastics accumulate mainly in the oceans, and there is therefore broad interest in understanding better how plastics and alternative materials biodegrade in this ecosystem. This is especially the case for Poly-Lactic Acid (PLA) that is increasingly considered as an alternative material (or bioplastic) to replace conventional (oil-based) plastics. Although PLA has been shown to biodegrade well under industrial composting and soil, it has not been assessed for biodegradation in the marine environment. Here, we performed a comparative analysis on the biodegradability of natural (cellulose-based), PLA, blend and synthetic fabrics directly in the marine environment. Coupons of fabrics were left exposed to natural weathering for >200 days in the coastal zone, and monitored with imaging techniques (bright field photography, but also IR and Raman spectroscopy). Results emphasize that synthetic fabrics (even when mix as in blend material) did not degrade. PLA also remained intact and did no show sign of biodegradation when in seawater. In contrast, wood- and plant-based cellulose fabrics biodegraded rapidly, usually within <45 days. This data emphasizes that bioplastics like PLA are not necessarily biodegradable in aquatic systems. It also shows that fibers from blend material do not influence each other with regards to biodegradability. Ultimately, the most attractive opportunities for plastics alternatives come from wood and cellulose-based materials, since readily biodegradable in the marine ecosystems, where most fibers and single-use items end-up accumulating.

    12:35Useful Data from Microfiber Analysis—Jan Beringer, Hohenstein
    Wastewater containing microfibers flows into sewage and waterways. Certain polymers attract more harmful substances and pollutants along the way. To prevent this damage to eco systems and food chains, decision makers need real data on fibers and material constructions. We’ll discuss what details can be quantified for developing more sustainable textiles that shed less – or not at all.
    1:05Test method for Fiber Fragment Release During Home Laundering (TM212)—Heather Elliot, Smartwool
    This presentation will go through the history and the work behind creating AATCC TM212 Fiber Fragment Release During Home Laundering.
    1:35Turn Off the Tap—Jeremy Stangeland, Under Armour
    UA’s broad look on how to tackle apparel fiber shedding pollution. UA’s test method for fiber shedding and how its implementation will support existing methods. UA’s plan to move forward.

    2:05Fiber Fragementation Brand Panel
    •Heather Elliot Shields, Smartwool
    •Lewis Shuler, Paradise Textiles
    •Jeremy Stangeland, Under Armour
    2:45Tackling Challenges Beyond Sustainability- Reshaping Tomorrow—Siva Pariti, BluWin Ltd.
    The industry is challenged to find solutions to solve all the issues related to climate change through sustainable innovations to manage circularity. The available solutions are often being scrutinized for their credibility. It is time for working together to find the solutions on what needs to be done to reduce the carbon footprint and be circular. Few decades back, the challenge is to produce articles with good color matching attributes and color fastness requirements, in the past ten years, the requirements extended to managing chemical risk, Health and Safety areas through managing MRSL and chemical management. However, currently, in addition to those, we have responsibility to optimize and manage our resources and reduce GHG emissions and ensure afterlife aspect to manage circularity with most ethical way. Transparency and traceability have become most important pillars of sustainable manufacturing.
    3:15Lenzing Fiber Innovation: Providing Solutions for the Creation of Sustainable Materials—Sharon Perez, Lenzing
    Sustainable textiles begin with an understanding of sustainable fibers. Lenzing a leader in wood-based fiber innovation offers fibers to help address environmental impact goals for textile / material suppliers and developers in the areas of water savings, reduced carbon impact, and circularity.
    3:45From Dirt to Shirt and Beyond: Cotton’s Circularity Story—Mary Ankeny, Cotton Incorporated
    Cotton has been cultivated as an apparel fiber for thousands of years. Throughout time, cotton garments have been worn, worn out and recycled in many different ways. As we gain understanding about the environment and human impact, it is important to manage the inputs and outputs of the cotton supply chain carefully and deliberately. By integrating the idea of circularity from farm to the consumer and beyond will help construct a viable future for this amazing and versatile fiber.
    4:15Live Q&A / Panel Discussion
    4:45Closing Remarks and Adjourn
    Moderator: Lewis Shuler, Paradise Textiles
    THURSDAY, AUGUST 18, 2022
    12:00 PM - 4:15 PM (ET)
    12:00 PMWelcome and Opening Remarks
    Moderator: Muhammad Zubair, Organic Dyes and Pigments
    12:05Water Free and Chemical Free Dyeing of Polyester on Industrial Scale in Super Critical CO₂—Kasper Nossent, DyeCoo Textile Systems B.V.
    The high levels of water and chemical usage in textile dyeing have a detrimental impact on the environment. Due to consumer and environmental pressure, the textile industry has set ambitious goals and laid down roadmaps, to reduce its environmental impact in terms of water usage, chemical usage and energy usage. The key to achieve these goals is to introduce impact technologies into the textile supply chain that generate radical changes.

    This presentation focuses on the decade long journey of successfully scaling-up ‘Super Critical CO₂ dyeing of polyester into a full scale industrial and commercial viable production technology to dye polyester fabrics and yarn. Furthermore we will explore the current successful integration of CO₂ dyeing into the supply chains of global brands and retailers run across South East Asia.

    12:35White and Green Biotech Creating New and Old Dyes and Pigments—Karin Fleck, Vienna Textile Lab
    Biorefineries are evolving to be a true alternative to petroleum based platform chemicals. Vitamins, antioxidants and biopigments are today manufactured via these new biological routes.

    The Vienna Textile Lab’s mission is to introduce new biological manufacturing methods for creating new and known dyes and pigments to the textile industry. We use the versatile biosynthetic pathways of microbes carefully collected from nature. In this presentation we share our achievements, challenges and learnings from the intersection of biotech and textile business.

    1:05Sustainability in Textile Finishing—Randy Mumford, Archroma
    Abstract Unavailable
    1:35Dyeing for Change: How Waterless, Low Energy Dyeing Technology is Set to Kickstart the Revolution—Dee Roche, Alchemie Technology
    Within the textile sector, the single worst contributor to climate change is dyeing and finishing. The environmental damage it causes can no longer be ignored. In addition, soaring energy costs combined with demands from brands and consumers to improve supply chain sustainability means the way textiles are dyed needs to urgently change.

    This session explains how revolutionary new technology will enable a complete transformation of the textile industry, dramatically reducing energy and carbon emissions by eliminating post dye washing and wastewater from the dyeing process.

    2:15Understanding Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) with Pioneering Sustainability Platform Green Story—Akhil Sivanandan, Green Story
    This presentation will address the following:
    •How to get started with Life Cycle Assessment (LCA)
    •Benefits and challenges of LCA
    •Understanding where LCA fit into a broader ESG strategy
    •How to ensure compliance with global anti-greenwashing legislation.
    2:45Sustainable Oil Absorbent Textiles—Seshadri Ramkumar, Texas Tech University
    Oil spill is rather a common accident in oil sector. There are many techniques available to decontaminate oil pollution after a spill incident. One method is absorption using large wipes. Mostly these wipes are synthetic based and lead to micro plastic pollution. The talk will focus on alternate natural fiber based oil absorbent. Results from laboratory and a field study will be presented.
    3:15A Journey Not a Destination: How to Engage with the ZDHC Roadmap to Zero Programme—Scott Echols, ZDHC
    Abstract Unavailable
    3:45Live Q&A / Panel Discussion
    4:15Closing Remarks and Adjourn
    Moderator: Muhammad Zubair, Organic Dyes and Pigments

  • Sustainability in Textiles Speakers

    Mary Ankeny is VP, Product Development and Implementation, at Cotton Incorporated and heads up the Textile Chemistry Research (TCR) Department and has oversight of the research labs and outside research for textile applications. Cotton Incorporated is focused on the issue of sustainability and TCR has worked to reduce inputs such as water, energy and chemistry in cotton wet processing through research and technology implementation. In recent years, Mary headed up the team at Cotton Incorporated who partnered with researchers at NCSU and Cornell to map cotton’s biodegradation path.
    Dr. Dimitri Deheyn, is a Marine Biologist-Research Scientist-Principal Investigator, Scripps Institution of Oceanography at the University of California San Diego. Deheyn is an expert generalist using biomimicry, the science of learning from Nature to develop new technologies, as an umbrella for multidisciplinary research. Amongst his expertise relevant here are ecotoxicology, biomaterials and circularity assessment. In his research, Deheyn emphasizes public outreach and collaborative projects with the industry.
    Heather Elliot is Product Integrity Manager at Smartwool. Heather has been a member of the AATCC since 2012. She is active in both AATCC and ASTM textile committees and believes that quality product is sustainable product.
    Karin Fleck, CEO and Founder, Vienna Textile Lab (VTL GmbH), is an accomplished manager in the field of business planning and strategy. She has worked over 10 years in the oil and energy business. Her expertise encompasses project management in the field of optimisation and data base landscapes up to the P&L responsibility of the virtual power plant portfolio. Through out her career she established new teams, structured business processes, trained and coached team members. She has been successfully establishing new technologies within the organization and managing core project portfolio.
    Randy Mumford is Technical Manager at Archroma. Randy is a graduate of North Carolina State University College of Textiles and has spent over 30 years in the chemical industry in various technical and commercial roles.
    Kasper Nossent works for Dyecoo Textile Systems B.V. as their Commercial Director and is based Asia. With an interest in innovative technologies and sustainability, he has over 15 years of experience in the High-Tech Industry, Digital Printing Industry and Textile Industry and has worked in different commercial and management roles in fields of R&D, business development and sales. Kasper holds a Bsc. in Chemical Engineering from Saxion University and a Msc. in Innovation Management from Utrecht University in the Netherlands.
    Dr. Siva Rama Kumar Pariti is Sr. Technical Marketing Officer at BluWin Ltd. Dr. Pariti holds a Ph.D. (Tech) in Intermediates and Dyestuffs Technology from UDCT in Mumbai, India. He is a Chartered Colourist (C.Col. A.S.D.C.) and was awarded the Silver Medal Society of Dyers and Colourists. Managing Trustee of SDC EC India and Member Trustee Board of SDC UK. Located in Manchester, Siva is responsible for research, innovation and to set the grounds for continuous learning.
    Sharon Perez represents Lenzing as Business Development Manager focused on active, outdoor, and footwear categories. Sharon blends her passion for strength training along with her background in textile research and development. She resides in NYC where she studied Fashion Merchandise Management at the Fashion Institute of Technology.
    Dr. Seshadri Ramkumar is a tenured full professor of advanced materials at Texas Tech University. His research has resulted in commercial products such as FiberTect decontamination wipe and cotton-based oil absorbent wipes. Most recently he has been appointed as an Honorary Distinguished Adjunct Professor of Agile Manufacturing and Management at Chennai-based Grand Alliance of Management Excellence. Currently he is actively involved in research related to face masks and promoting its usefulness in protecting global citizens, via research and outreach.

    He publishes an international newsletter called “TexSnips,” which is distributed globally informing researchers, industry, and academics on new developments in the field of fiber to soft materials.
    Akhil Sivanandan is the co-founder and co-CEO of Green Story, a sustainability platform helping brands like PANGAIA, threadup and 150+ more, to accurately quantify and show the environmental performance of their products and offset their carbon footprint.
    Jeremy Stangeland is Sr. Lab Manager at Under Armour. Jeremy’s father made sure he never left waste behind, and his dad stepped up as an example by always picking up other people’s trash. Patagonia amplified those values and Under Armour has helped Jeremy turn those lessons into something he is truly proud to be a part of.

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