Concept 2 Consumer® Track Abstracts
As the industry moves away from traditional vacuum light sources to solid state (LED) light sources there is a corresponding change in the spectral power distribution (SPD). In fact, there are multiple SPD for both vacuum and LED sources that have an impact on the appearance of products. This presentation will include data of SPD and some alternatives for dealing with and even exploiting the situation to increase product appeal and consistency.
With the rapid change in lighting types, the typical consumer is frequently confused when purchasing lights. Terms such as 60-Watt replacement, Warm White, Cool White, Lumens, Color Temperature and the associated numbers that go with these terms leave many folks wishing for good old incandescent lights. Ways that the lighting community, retailers, and government agencies might help with better understanding will be discussed.
The retail landscape is evolving at a frantic pace. Retailers are challenged to provide instantaneous fulfillment to capture the customer’s sale. Retail brands are being driven by the transforming market to reduce the production lead time. In the challenge to meet these demands, color decisions are shifted to the source of manufacturing with retail brands providing oversite.
This changing retail world has evolved the way color is managed. Today only solid color on textiles with minimum texture can be managed digitally. This still leaves a large percentage of product categories which are not suitable for measurement on a spectrophotometer and thus managed through subjective visual evaluations. Inconsistent subjective evaluations increase approval time, delay getting product to market with increased development cost.
Evolving technology can help both retailers and suppliers provide digital solutions on a wider range of substrates to include multi-color fabrics, prints, trims, yarns and laces. By incorporating objective color evaluations on these substrates, retailers and suppliers can exchange digital color information which aids in the reduction of out of tolerance samples from being submitted. The results of which are speed to market through quicker approvals and lower costs.
Reducing this production time is exactly what retailers need to do to stand out in this evolving retail market. A retail brand’s growth is linked to how well they develop new ways to utilize technology in all aspects of their brand.
Even in this era of master spectral data, matching heather fabrics continues to be a problem for brands and mills because, unlike spectral data for solid colors, no objective, measurable standard is in place for comparison. Even when physical standards exist, there is no industry best practice defining how non-solid colors can be instrumentally measured, let alone for using dye formulation and correction software in matching. This paper will outline the results of three approaches using spectral data as the sole means for color matching and evaluation on a subset of reserve heather fabrics (fabrics constructed of a single yarn composed of two dye class dependent fibers, one of which is reserved as white after the dyeing process is complete).
All brands wish to delight their consumers with great color choices and reliable shade in-store. But we’re also challenged to shorten our development calendars to chase consumer trends — with limited resources. Making the switch to electronic approvals for solid lab dips is a great solution, but it’s a journey of letting go of the assurance that comes with what you can see and touch. It takes time to consider the benefits and risks. You may wish to update your color requirements to best ensure successful on-floor shade. You will need to bring your interdependent business partners along with you, and, of course, it requires management support. We’ll discuss how LS&CO shifted its color-approval process from a hands-on approach to an electronic model for solid lab dips – as well as exceptions we’ve made and challenges we still face.
With an estimated 50 billion connected devices by 2020, the hyper-connected world will result in attention spans that will be shorter than ever. To catch the consumer’s attention, we are challenged to consistently provide newness, something different that will quickly draw attention to your product.
In many material development models, there are endless development trips across the globe, to partner with one mill, to develop your latest and greatest “wow” fabric. This takes up a lot of time (and travel budget) that slows down your ability to respond to the market quickly. Many have resorted to this model because they rely on the textile expertise of mills in other countries.
There is a faster way. I will briefly touch on the basics of mechanical circular knitting vs. computerized circular knitting and explain the challenges of developing fabric on the more predominately available mechanical machine. By translating your design into mechanical machine parameters (with detailed yarn information) your material design may be quantifiably relayed to any mill for material duplication. This process significantly reduces qualifiable communication, which in a global network many times is inefficient and expensive. Quantifiably communicating with your mills drastically improves speed to market, reduces development costs, and empowers you to own your intellectual property.
Consumer use is often recognized as a major source of environmental impact for textiles and apparel, but the reasons are unclear. As a part of the life cycle assessment of a cotton t-shirt, average primary energy demand and water consumption was determined globally and in three regions – the United States, Asia and Europe. Global consumer practice data was obtained from a Cotton Council International and Cotton Incorporated study conducted in 2015. These data were combined with literature data on energy and water use for home washing machines and dryers. Average global primary energy demand was 87,300 MJ and water consumption was 197,000 cubic meters over the life of a T-shirt, which was about 18 home laundry cycles.
Textile processing techniques continue to evolve in order to ensure superior quality of textile garments with respect to color, fastness properties and durability. At the same time, it is essential not to overlook environmental constraints and to avoid usage of hazardous chemicals in textile processing. Fortunately, many brands, NGOs and environmental legislation have come together, worldwide, to imbibe the importance of safe processing and sustainability in the textile industry.
Thus, it has become important to select compliant dyestuffs for coloration as well as address sustainable processing while paying close attention to other chemical management processes that ensure overall safety and sustainability in textiles.
This presentation will highlight many contributing factors that should be considered during the processing and coloration of textiles.
Helping Textile Chemical Suppliers Meet New Requirements for Compliance, Alternatives Assessment, and Sustainable Chemistry: An Overview of Methods and Tools in the Context of a Specific Use Case – Joseph P. Rinkevich, Scivera LLC
Textile product development teams and apparel product designers are demanding improved ways to evaluate materials and process chemicals based on new restricted substance requirements and underlying human and environmental health characteristics. To address problems such as constantly changing regulations, short product development cycles, and increased regulatory compliance expectations, a variety of methods and tools are now available to chemical suppliers, mills, and brands. Putting these tools in the context of a specific use case can be instructive. Our research generated a comparison of the human health and environmental endpoints for 19 perfluorinated compounds (PFCs) of interest to the textile industry. Data are compiled from the scientific literature along with data modeling to fill data gaps. These endpoints allow users to directly compare hazard information based on an extensive compilation of data when selecting safer alternative chemicals.
Advancing chemical management and understanding environmental impact in the world of contracted manufacturing requires in depth knowledge about the risks, impacts, and hot spots in the value chain. In order to effect meaningful change, you have to also communicate performance and ongoing improvements. One way to do this is through supply chain assessment and verification of facility performance. This session will discuss multiple approaches available throughout the textile industry and how a system of tools could be necessary to address the needs of different impact areas. Through its ongoing work with their clients, OEKO-TEX® has designed many new programs to help companies address the challenges of operating sustainably in the complex global marketplace. Our STeP program helps textile facilities manufacture in more environmentally and socially responsible ways. The program examines a facility’s chemical management, environmental performance, environmental management, occupational health and safety, social responsibility and quality management. As a leader in the textile industry’s efforts to reduce hazardous chemicals in the supply chain, our DETOX TO ZERO program helps companies comply with Greenpeace’s Detox Campaign recommendations. Also as a partner of the ZDHC (Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals), we reinforce our commitment to eliminating chemicals that harm people and the environment.
Many studies have focused on the aspects of textiles that may cause discomfort. There is limited to no studies, however, that determine what the impact of discomfort is on human performance. We performed a series of experiments to study this. In one study subjects performed a 2-hour protocol without and with significant discomfort. Their performance was assessed via various cognitive tasks.
The results showed that strong discomfort only minimally influenced the overall scores for performance, only a 2% increase in percentage missed stimuli was found. The type of task did influence the change in comfort scores, increasing the scores during challenging tasks, while decreasing during easy tasks. The results and psychology literature suggest that discomfort may be suppressed briefly to reach a goal, but afterwards discomfort will return and influence clothing appreciation negatively.
Federal regulations require many textile products to contain a label with care instructions. This label is expected to provide guidance on regular fabric care, as well as warnings about certain procedures that could damage the product. There are a number of standardized test methods for determining care instructions, but in general only test results that meet or exceed performance specifications are considered appropriate. Manufacturers are required to include one set of instructions, though more than one method may be suitable. For textile products exempt from care label requirements, manufacturers often provide guidance for best practices, but insufficient detail can lead to consumer confusion and improper care. ·Here we examine case ‘studies where fabric care instructions were either not properly followed or ambiguous. Examples will include fabrics that were machine washed though they were labeled “Dry Clean,” and technical textiles (e.g., fall protection harnesses) that were exposed to chemicals though they were labeled with general instructions to “avoid solvents.” In addition, the impact of disregarding or misinterpreting specified care instructions on fabric performance will be evaluated.
There are many claims for apparel and textiles in the market such as anti-microbial, windproof, water resistant, breathable, water repellent, quick dry, UV protective, stretch and recovery, thermal regulation, thread count (for bedding products) etc.
The textile industry and consumers are confused about how to verify various claims in the market, so this presentation will provide insights into this matter. This presentation will discuss about these claims, explain the test methods associated with such claims for testing, and provide standard industry accepted requirements.