Session: Color & Lighting: "Bright Ideas"
Wednesday, March 25
10:30 AM – Noon
Moderator: Karen Kyllo, SGS US Testing Services
Color and Lighting Update
Ann Laidlaw, ACL Color Consulting LLC
Light sources are changing. Regulations and opportunities for improved energy efficiency are driving commercial users to new choices. In the past, the choice of commercial lighting technologies was mostly limited to incandescent bulbs, CWF-style fluorescent tubes, tri-phosphor fluorescent tubes, and various forms of natural or simulated daylight. Today, residential and commercial customers have far more options, with additional technologies being installed in a store near you. This presentation will review various current and emerging lighting technologies, our methods for assessing them, and the practical implications of using the technologies to view colored objects.
LED Lighting in Museums: Conservation and Color of Textiles
Mary W. Ballard, Smithsonian Institution
Museums are facing difficulty with textile objects as they begin implementing LEDs into galleries. The damage caused by light is aesthetically and physically damaging to artifacts, and is almost completely irreversible. LEDs have enormously variable SPDs that can cause the color of artifacts to look distorted to viewers. This occurs when the wavelengths reflected by the dyes are absent from the spectrum of the LED selected. Research to explore the effects of LEDs on early synthetic dyes has been conducted to understand the consequences of implementing LEDs in museum galleries. Findings show that when information from the lamp SPD and textile light reflectance data are used together, it is possible to select lamps that give the appearance of increased color saturation without harming the artifact.
Session: Concept Innovation
1:45– 4:00 PM
Moderator: Kerry King, Spoonflower Inc.
The Testing and Evaluation Process of Developing a Digitally Printed High Performance Sustainable Textile Wallcovering and Upholstery for Commercial Application
Martin Gurian, Designtex
The introduction will describe and illustrate how a sustainable high performance non-woven wallcovering is digitally printed and top coated at a modern Designtex digital printing facility. The non-woven substrate is composed of sustainable components, printing inks selected for sustainable characteristics and high performance characteristics, and high performance for commercial application with a protective top coating applied after printing. The printed and coated wallcovering is then followed as it is thoroughly tested to meet commercial industry wallcovering standards such as flammability and colorfastness plus additional Designtex tests for high performance application such as print retention, cleanability, and resistance to cleaning agents and disinfectants. The wallcovering is also environmentally tested for VOC's and CA Prop 65 compliance and test hung in controlled lighting.
Innovation Ideation from Concept to Commercialization
Portia Blunt, New Balance
A brief look at the journey a brand goes through to process big ideas and turn them into reality. The presentation will cover the process of ideation from start to finish. Looking at how concepts are developed, stories are then created from those concepts and then product designed and created, all linked together through the process to commercialization.
Cotton Innovations: Latest Knit and Woven Fabric Collections for the Apparel and Home Markets
Yvonne Johnson, Cotton Incorporated
Cotton Incorporated presents a new collection of cotton and cotton-rich fabrics developed by the Product Development & Implementation Division located at the Research and Development Center in Cary, NC. A variety of innovative 100% cotton and cotton-rich woven and knit fabrics for the apparel, home, and accessories markets will be shared to provide new ideas and inspiration. This range of fabrics will highlight new and interesting yarns, unique weaving and knitting constructions, sustainable dyeing and finishing techniques, and performance technologies. This fabric collection is designed to help product developers, manufacturers, brands, and retailers get the most from cotton.
Session: Materials Development
Thursday, March 26
9:00 AM – 10:00 AM
Moderator: Tiffany Eubanks, Innovative Textile Printing
Temperature Regulating Fabrics
Renuka Dhandapani, Cotton Incorporated
There are many garments in the market that are promoted to have temperature regulating properties. For example, some garments have claims to make the wearer feel cooler while exercising. For cooler environments, some garments are claimed to have warmth without excessive weight. However, it is often difficult to substantiate these claims. A study was initiated to obtain an understanding of the validity of such claims, and then to develop cotton garments that really work for temperature regulation. Several treatments were applied using padding, coating, or other techniques to cotton-rich fabrics with the goal of achieving temperature regulation. These fabrics were then evaluated using both standard and custom protocols. Limited wear testing was also conducted for comparison to the data from these studies. The results of this study will be discussed.Because of the numerous processing steps involved in garment production, often conducted by different suppliers, the major environmental impacts of textiles usually occur before the Tier 1 suppliers of brands and retailers. The Higg Index of the Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC) is a tool developed to support the industry with the implementation of sustainable suppliers programs. It can be used as a first step for implementation of a continuous improvement process and the facility. It helps reduce the environmental footprint of the supply chain and can also drive significant cost reduction in factories. This presentation will give an update on the last developments of the SAC and will share a case study on the implementation of a sustainable suppliers program by a major retailer.
Textile Innovation in a Regulated World
Joe Walkuski, TEXbase Inc.
The regulatory environment continues to tighten around contemporary textile R&D teams. Gone are the days when a textile degree is all you needed to properly engineer fabrics. Legal, social, and chemical disciplines are now merging with existing textile, quality and end‐use engineering functions to create new organizational structures and integrated knowledge streams. This session will focus on industry challenges and best practice solutions that have proven successful in creating textile R&D teams and processes that foster innovation, while incorporating the requirements of today’s regulated world.
Session: Consumer Product Interests
10:15 – 11:45 AM
Moderator: Heidi Carvalho, Rothtec Engraving Corp.
Evaluation of Apparel Quality from the Consumer's Perspective
Laurel D Romeo, Louisiana State University
To understand how consumers evaluate quality in ready-to-wear apparel, 681 male and female subjects examined four different categories of apparel taken from the sales floor of five major US retailers. Garments remained in the condition found on the sales floor with all tags attached. Participants compared two garments located at four separate stations, rated the relative quality of each, and wrote a description of quality cues used in their evaluation. Results indicated that perceived quality was often based on a misunderstanding of fiber properties. Additionally, fabrication, finishing, and construction flaws were often minimized if a preference for the garment’s aesthetics existed. Brand indicated quality in only one apparel category. Implications for industry include the need to educate consumers about fibers, fabrication, finishing, and apparel construction.
Choosing a Fit Model for Smart Garments: A Case Selection Approach Using 3D Body Scanning
Mahendran Balasubramanian, Oklahoma State University
Identifying appropriate fit models for special populations, such as the aged or the diseased, is critical for evaluating wearable health monitoring systems. Having suitable fit is essential in vital signal monitoring towards reducing motion artifacts and to facilitate reliable signal quality. In this study, 3D-scanned data of an obese population was used to case-select a fit model representative of sleep apnea patients. Key bivariate measurements were used as the basis in selecting a suitable model, and further optimized using additional multivariate measurements and body shape. The chosen model was reverse engineered and the torso region was 3D printed for fit testing garment prototypes and for determining optimal placement of sensors and other embedded hardware components. The approach can be generalized for other garment types.
Session: Consumer Product Interests (Cont'd)
2:15 – 3:45 PM
Moderator: Carol Revels, Lands’ End Inc.
Johnny Shell, SGIA
Digital technologies have developed into a viable option for printing and decorating textiles. This session will provide an overview of the popular technology platforms and will then focus on direct-to-garment inkjet and dye sublimation technologies.
The Quest for Performance Features: Consumers' Expectations Revealed
Kim Kitchings, Cotton Incorporated
Clothing retailers and brands are in constant pursuit of the next performance feature that will increase sales and provide a distinct advantage over their competitors. Understanding consumer expectations of features such as thermal regulation, antimicrobial, and moisture management, which are earning price premiums for some notable brands, are paramount as the standards industry clambers to create new measurements that will accurately gauge product performance. Learn about what enhancements shoppers are searching for in their apparel purchases, what their expectations are for specific performance features, and how the industry can meet ever-evolving consumer expectations based on the latest research insights from Cotton Incorporated.