Session: Concept and Design Insights
Wednesday, April 2
9:45 AM – Noon
Moderator: Karen E. Kyllo, SGS US Testing Services
A New Collection and a New Machine Look for the World of Denim
Markus Kirwald, Stoll Fashion and Technology
After the great response to our first denim collection Spring/Summer 2014, we took on the challenge to create a collection of Wintery denim knits for Autumn/Winter 2014/2015. The novelty of the current collection is based on extraordinary pattern techniques, but also with the combination of seasonal mixed materials, merino wool connects in this context with indigo-dyed cotton. This is unparalleled in the denim industry. The outcomes are soft and warm fabrics, which still reflect classic denim look. This approach has not been seen before and opens up a whole new variety of applications. As Stoll celebrates its 140th anniversary this year, some of the looks represent this event. Most of the creations in this collection would not have been possible without the new STOLL ADF technology.
Yvonne Johnson, Cotton Incorporated
In this presentation, Cotton Incorporated will share a collection of the most recently developed fabrics for the home and apparel market. These fabric collections are developed with the intent to inspire and educate mills, manufacturers, brands and retailers with fabric constructions, interesting yarns, prints and finishes. Highlights of this collection of apparel and home fabrics includes core fabrics with a twist for the athletic wear market, surface embellishments on denim, textural dobby weaves that crossover between bottom weights and shirtings, ultrafine jersey, complex garment effects on unique fabric substrates, indigo alternatives for sustainability, and new fabrics using Cotton Incorporated performance technologies.
Innovation Ideation from Concept to Commercialization
Portia Blunt, New Balance
A brief look at the journey a brand goes through to process big ideas and turn them into reality. The presentation will cover the process of ideation from start to finish. Looking at how concepts are developed, stories are then created from those concepts, and then product designed and created all linked together through the process to commercialization.
Session: A Glimpse At What's New-Color, Print & Product Development
2:00– 4:00 PM
Moderator: Kerry M. King, Spoonflower Inc.
The Advent of Digital as a Viable Production Option
Michael Labella, Sensient Imaging Technologies
Combining printing speeds of over 4600 square feet per hour with efficiencies created by technical advances in ink and paper technologies, digital printing is finally a viable option for long run textile printing. In addition, the incredible advantages offered by digital—on demand printing, faster reaction time to market demands, and a more efficient and cost effective supply chain paired with the ability to quickly and efficiently go from sample to production in a fully scalable and integrated manufacturing process—suggest that the technology is now ready to change the way we produce and distribute printed textiles.
NTS Garments Designed for Different Human Torso Temperature Distributions
Tanya Domina, Central Michigan University
The objective was to determine which textile fabrics are most likely to provide optimal heat and moisture transfer, and then to develop apparel prototypes using a combination of empirical thermal data, textiles, and construction techniques for the purpose of optimizing heat and moisture transfer at a minimum cost of materials and production. Specifically, to develop prototype NTS garments using selected fabrics based on objective hotplate testing and on thermal data profiles gathered from previous research. It is envisioned that multiple NTS garments will need to be designed for various temperature conditions, based on preliminary data analysis of human torso temperature distributions at various temperatures.
Making Fabric Fit Garments: Producing Stretch Apparel using Extension and Modules Parameters
Ruth Kelly, Lululemon Athletica
Traditionally, designing stretch garments entails the designer sourcing a fabric they think has the right stretch and power. To establish if the fabric has the desired performance, they extend it a few times in the hand, and once satisfied, they set about designing, "making the garment fit the fabric.” But what if the fabric was made to fit the garment? This paper will explore how fabrics can be sourced and/or developed to pre-determined extension and modulus criteria prior to garment design. Answers will be given to the questions "what is that right stretch and power?" and "how can it be objectively quantified and established?” Finally the benefits of improved fit, design, quality, performance, speed to market, and customer satisfaction will be discussed.
Session: Supply Chain and Trends—Today and Tomorrow
Thursday, April 3
9:00 AM – 10:00 AM
Moderator: Tiffany M. Eubanks, Innovative Textile Printing
Tina Beauvais, EmBraced in Comfort LLC
Many are familiar with the phrase, "Necessity is the mother of invention," but Tina Beauvais, president of EmBraced In Comfort and patented inventor, has lived this as her reality since before the inception of her company in September 2009. During her presentation, Tina will share how she took an unexpected problem she experienced as a mother and turned it into a way to bring comfort to many patients suffering with ailments such as scoliosis. She will also discuss her unique business model and ideas for succeeding as a small domestic manufacturer of textile products. Tina is proof that random skills accumulated through one's early lifetime can come together in synergistic ways to create an unexpected, yet necessary, business.
Sustainable Textiles Begin with a Sustainable Supply Chain
Xavier Vital, SGS North America
Because of the numerous processing steps involved in garment production, often conducted by different suppliers, the major environmental impacts of textiles usually occur before the Tier 1 suppliers of brands and retailers. The Higg Index of the Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC) is a tool developed to support the industry with the implementation of sustainable suppliers programs. It can be used as a first step for implementation of a continuous improvement process and the facility. It helps reduce the environmental footprint of the supply chain and can also drive significant cost reduction in factories. This presentation will give an update on the last developments of the SAC and will share a case study on the implementation of a sustainable suppliers program by a major retailer.
Session: Consumer Interests—Product Performance and Innovation for the Retail Marketplace
10:15 – 11:45 AM
Moderator: Heidi E. Carvalho, Rothtec Engraving Corp.
An Overview of Odor Development within Textiles: Current Technologies, Evaluation Methods and Future Directions
Rachel McQueen, University of Alberta
Body odor can build up and remain in clothing fabrics following wear next to the skin. Although it is generally accepted that malodor is a problem for some consumer clothing, particularly sportswear, odor development and control within clothing has received only limited attention by researchers. This paper presents the development of human body odor, including how odor is transferred to clothing; the importance of generic fiber type in influencing overall odor intensity; and current solutions for odor control within textiles. Lastly, a discussion of the various methods for how to evaluate odor controlling technologies within textiles and future directions for research will be presented.
Purchase Activated Manufacturing, A New Era of Technology that Triples Profits
Bill Grier, AM4U, Inc.
Virtual Inventory, No Minimums, No Warehouse, No Water. A PAM (Purchase Activated Manufacturing)-based factory incorporates the complete manufacture of apparel from design to finished garments under one roof. It is a single automated and integrated mini-factory containing order processing, design, pattern, waterless infusion dyeing, printing, and labeling in a single pass, optical cutting, robotic handling, sewing, finishing, and shipping. This approach generates two to three times the profit of apparel created using a conventional mass-manufacturing, global supply chain approach. PAM represents a real information-age technology breakthrough. Converting a virtual digital inventory, starting from greige fabric, nothing is made until the consumer places and pays for an order. Delivery time for custom apparel to the consumer is now a few days.
Taking the Hand Out of Fabric “Hand”
John Crocker, SDL Atlas
The feel or “hand” of a fabric has long been realized as a major point in the purchasing of a product by the consumer. In some cases, it is thought to be even more important than color. However, unlike color measurement, correlation of instrumental results with the “real world feel” of a textile has historically been very difficult and expensive to obtain. A new testing apparatus, the Fabric Touch Tester (FTT), is now available from SDL Atlas Textile Testing Solutions. FTT design is the result of a team effort between SDL Atlas and the Hong Kong Polytechnic University. The FFT provides an objective measurement through a series of multiple properties captured in a single test. Results from the study correlate with human perception.
Session: Consumer Interests—Product Performance and Innovation for the Retail Marketplace (cont'd)
2:15 – 3:45 PM
Kim Kitchings, Cotton Incorporated
Retail customers possess an unprecedented level of power to influence clothing trends and to affect the purchase decisions of other shoppers by sharing their consumer experiences on retailer websites. More than ever, clothing designers, manufacturers, and distributors must understand and use customer feedback to enhance retail offerings to ensure lasting competitiveness. Cotton Incorporated has undertaken breakthrough research, capturing more than 260,000 reviews on 30,000+ apparel and home textile products, to gain unique consumer knowledge. Learn how consumer reviews impact purchases and how apparel performance issues coupled with fabrication changes can adversely impact shopper loyalty to retailers and brands.
Expanding the Market for Responsibly-Made Products
Beth Stewart, Redress Raleigh
In the past few years, there has been a growing awareness of the ethical and environmental consequences of fast fashion. In addition, more customers are looking for higher quality items that will last beyond three washes. There is a growing “middle market” of customers growing less and less interested in fast fashion and more engaged with authentic, high-quality goods. This presentation will discuss the potential of this middle market customer base and unique business models that are already addressing the demands created within this sector.
Transforming Textile Printing
Ron Gilboa, InfoTrends.
The potential for digital printing to influence the $165 billion printed textile market has long been promised, yet about 1% is digitally printed today. Digital printing has broken through from the proofing and prototyping market and is now viable for short-run production. Work currently produced on flatbed screen textile presses is now well within the capabilities of the latest generation of digital textile printers. Demands from clients are also changing, and the combination of new demands and the technologies to meet them will transform the market. This presentation will address: key market trends and growth drivers, innovation in digital printing technologies, key players and solution providers, benefits and barriers to digital printing, and range of applications and examples.